WHY KOJIC ACID IS THE BEST ASIAN BEAUTY SECRET FOR DARK SPOTS
BY MADAME SWEAT
Many of you may not have heard of kojic acid as here in North America, it’s not as popular as glycolic acid or salicylic acid, but it’s quite a popular skin brightening ingredient in Asia. I first discovered the ingredient after an employee of mine would always ask her family members from the Philippines to bring kojic acid soap to Canada whenever they visited. Since the soaps were created with very high levels of kojic acid the soap would become mushy after some time.
Being the curious product developer that I am, I learned why this ingredient was a well-loved beauty ingredient in Asia and how I could use it in my formulas. So, if you’re someone who has dark underarms or dark spot pigmentation on the body (such as dark inner thighs, elbows and knees or acne scars), then I’m going to tell you how you can safely use kojic acid to brighten your uneven dark spots.
WHAT IS KOJIC ACID AND HOW DOES IT WORK?
Kojic is a natural chemical produced from different types of fungi and is also a derivative of fermented foods such as Japanese sake, soy sauce and rice wine.
BENEFITS OF KOJIC ACID FOR SKIN
- Prevents dark spot formation: kojic acid is a tyrosine inhibitor, which means it blocks tyrosine, the amino acid responsible for developing melanin, thus preventing dark spot formation and giving a skin brightening effect
- Antioxidant & anti-inflammatory properties: kojic acid can help protect the skin from free radicals caused from UV damage and pollution
- Anti-microbial & anti-fungal: these unique properties make kojic acid a powerhouse ingredient and if used on armpit darkness, it can help kill odor-causing bacteria and make your deodorant work better
NOT ALL KOJIC ACIDS ARE CREATED EQUAL
A lesser-known fact is that there are different types of kojic acids. When you look at ingredient lists for these soaps, “kojic acid” is most commonly used, however what you should be looking for is “kojic dipalmitate”. Kojic acid dipalmitate is a derivative of kojic acid. It’s considered to be superior to kojic in its brightening ability and is more stable than kojic in cosmetic formulations.
Regular kojic acid can actually oxidize and turn brown in creams or serums which is why kojic acid dipalmitate is the better version and is the version I used in my kojic acid bar.
IS KOJIC ACID SAFE FOR MY SKIN?
Kojic is completely safe for all skin types at low levels and is well-loved by dermatologists. It’s important to know that this ingredient works best when brightening dark spot pigmentation caused by post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) such as shaving and hair removal trauma, acne scars, sun spots, bug bites, or scratches. It does not bleach nor change the color of your skin it only helps even out the skin tone from dark spots and restores the skin to its natural color.
Only when you’re using a product with high levels of kojic acid or if it’s combined with a controversial ingredient like hydroquinone does it become an irritant and can even cause a burning sensation or rash.
Dermatologists and studies suggest a concentration of no more than 1% or else it can cause severe irritation and can sometimes increase the hyperpigmentation. Make sure to look for where in the ingredient list kojic acid is placed. If it’s placed in the mid to lower part of the of ingredient list, then you know the product contains low levels.
WHAT TYPE OF KOJIC ACID FORMULATION IS BEST?
This ingredient comes in many forms such as serums, creams, soaps, and cleansers. Oftentimes when you are looking for kojic acid products, kojic acid soap is the first thing that shows up on Google. The kojic acid soap formulation is most convenient and the easiest to use for body pigmentation issues.
That’s why I created an all-natural kojic acid soap, just use it in the shower, lather and leave it on for 30 seconds on your underarms or up to four minutes on body dark spots.